Usually it's a date
that looks wrong for your plot.
Nearly always, the fix is the two frost dates on the Site tab — every other date in the app is arithmetic on those. If yours isn't here, email us: a person answers.
[email protected] · or jump to every way to reach us.
Every date traces back to your two frost dates.
Nothing in CatchCrop is stored as a month. Change the frost dates and you change the whole year — but only where you ask it to.
Everything is a few weeks out
Your frost dates are out by about the same amount. Open Site and correct them — a local gardening society, an allotment neighbour or your seed supplier will know the usual dates for your area better than any national average.
I changed the frost dates and nothing moved
That's deliberate. Existing plantings keep the dates they were saved with, because silently rewriting a sowing date you have already acted on would be worse than leaving it. Open the planting and choose Recalculate from frost dates. New plantings use the new dates straight away.
The harvest date is optimistic
Days to maturity in the library are typical figures, and typical means warm soil, decent light and a following wind. Your seed packet beats our number every time. Change the sowing date on the planting and the rest follows; if a crop's figure looks wrong to you as a grower, tell us and we'll check it.
A crop I grow isn't in the library
There are thirty-one crops, chosen to cover most of a vegetable plot rather than everything that grows. Sprouting broccoli, swede, celeriac, fennel, pak choi and kohlrabi are on the list to add. Perennials — asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries — are a harder problem: sow, plant out and harvest is the wrong shape for a plant that comes back every year, and we would rather leave them out than fake it. Ask for one.
Garlic and parsnip look odd
They should. Garlic is sown around the first frost and harvested after the next spring's, so its dates cross a year boundary. Parsnip is lifted after the first frosts have sweetened it, so its harvest is anchored to autumn rather than to a number of days. Both are correct.
I'm in the southern hemisphere
Then it already works. Enter your own frost dates — a last spring frost in, say, September and a first autumn frost in May — and the whole year follows them. There is not a month name anywhere in the crop library, which is exactly why.
The ones we get asked.
Cost, privacy, sync, reminders, and what the app needs to run.
What does it cost?
Two beds are free, for as long as you like — there is no trial to run out. A third asks for CatchCrop Full: £2.99 a month or £19.99 a year, the same access either way. Apple takes the payment, and it renews until you turn off auto-renew in your App Store settings. A raised bed, an allotment plot and a patio pot all count as one bed each.
Do I have to pay again on a new iPhone?
No. Apple records the subscription against your Apple Account rather than the phone, so signing in to the same account carries it across; Restore purchases on the Site tab picks it up if it does not appear straight away. It is one subscription on one Apple Account and is not set up for Family Sharing. Apple takes the payment and handles refunds, at reportaproblem.apple.com.
How do I cancel, and what happens if I do?
Cancel in your App Store account settings, not in the app: Settings, then your name, then Subscriptions. Cancel at least 24 hours before the period ends or it renews. Nothing is deleted when a subscription ends: every bed, every job and the whole journal stay on screen and readable. Only editing beds beyond the free two is gated until a subscription runs again.
Why doesn't it know where I am?
On purpose. CatchCrop has no location code in it at all. A table that claimed to know your plot's frost dates from your postcode would be confidently wrong for anyone in a frost pocket, a walled garden or three streets from the sea — and you would have no way of telling. So we ask you instead, and offer a short list of named reference climates to start from.
Does it work offline?
Entirely. The crop library ships inside the app and every date is arithmetic, so there is nothing to fetch. Allotments are exactly where signal isn't, which is rather the point.
Why don't my journal photos appear on my other device?
Photographs deliberately don't sync — the note text does. Pictures are large, the iCloud storage they would fill is yours rather than ours, and quietly eating it is not a trade we want to make on your behalf. They are still ordinary files on the phone, so an iCloud Backup of the device carries them to a replacement handset; they just won't appear on a second device you use at the same time.
Where is my garden stored?
On your iPhone — and, where iCloud sync is on, in your own private iCloud database, which is Apple's to hold and not ours to see. The Site tab says which state your copy is in; there is no switch for it inside CatchCrop. There is no Mirentha server and no account. Full detail is on the privacy page.
A reminder didn't arrive
Reminders are off until you turn them on, in Site settings. Once on, one arrives at 08:00 on the day a job is due — unless you have already ticked it off, in which case nothing is sent. Check Settings › CatchCrop › Notifications, and any Focus mode. iOS also limits how many notifications an app may hold at once, so CatchCrop schedules the soonest sixty and tops them up next time you open the app. One known gap: a reminder won't appear while CatchCrop is the app you are looking at.
Where are the watering reminders?
There aren't any, deliberately. Watering depends on your soil, your weather and what the plant is doing today, none of which the app can see. A guessed cadence — the sort that nags you to water in a downpour — is exactly what makes people stop trusting a planner. CatchCrop only tells you things it can actually work out.
My plot is too big for the screen
Beds are capped at 24 × 60 squares, which is 7.2 m by 18 m, and a plot near that size shrinks its squares to fit. Splitting a big allotment into a few named beds is easier to plan and easier to read. A zoomable board is the obvious next step and is on the list.
How do I delete a bed or a planting?
Press and hold it, then confirm — there is no swipe-to-delete, because a season's planning is too easy to lose to a stray thumb. A planting can also be deleted from the foot of its own editor.
What do I need to run it?
An iPhone running iOS 26 or later. CatchCrop is iPhone-only and portrait-only; there is no iPad or Mac version, and no dark mode.
How do I delete my data?
Delete the app: that removes the garden, the journal and every photograph from the device. Anything of yours in iCloud — whether from sync or from an iPhone backup — is in your own account: remove it in Settings › your name › iCloud. We hold nothing, so there is nothing to ask us for.
Things we already
know about.
Listed rather than buried. Found something that isn't here? Tell us about it — it's the fastest way to get it fixed.
Twelve of the crops have been read by a grower; nineteen haven't
The original twelve were checked against seed catalogues line by line. The rest were added afterwards and are sound but unreviewed. If one looks wrong for a crop you actually grow, we want to hear it.
No rotation warnings, and no season rollover
CatchCrop won't yet tell you that brassicas followed brassicas, and it can't repeat last year's plan into this one. Both are on the list.
The weekly list stops at fifteen future jobs
Beyond that it says how many more are coming rather than listing an entire season you can't act on yet.
Eight photos to a journal entry
Each one is re-encoded to screen size when you add it, so the app doesn't quietly fill your phone.
Every way to reach us.
Tell us your iPhone model and iOS version, and the crop or bed it happened on. We read every message.
Grow something we've got wrong, or something we haven't got? Tell us what you sow and when — that's the useful bit.
71–75 Shelton Street
Covent Garden, London
WC2H 9JQ, United Kingdom
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